by "Agnese"
premessa: quanto di seguito riportato e' stato parzialmente tratto dal sito www.turistipercaso.it dove la Sig.ra Agnese ha pubblicato il suo diario di viaggio nei Balcani al link http://www.turistipercaso.it/viaggi/itinerari/testo.asp?ID=10048#inizio .
dietro autorizzazione dell'autrice (che qui ringrazio) ne riporto solo la parte relativa al suo passaggio in Bulgaria ma credo che l'intero suo story to be read because 'very realistic and extremely well exposed.
================================================ ======
........ Meanwhile, the weather changed, it rains and is chilly, so we wanted to give us pause to give up on Lake Ohrid. Through Macedonia: wild and beautiful mountains, green forests and lakes, too bad the flood visibilità.Alla steals the border with Bulgaria and we are there a truck, surrounded by beautiful fog in late autumn. We do not want to penetrate the darkness and the flood on the road to the monastery, then we stop in the town of Rila in the one hotel which unfortunately also works as a single restaurant. The rooms are not bad, but it must be a public facility with salaried staff, are lazy, irritating and cook like shit. Only accept Lev, it's late and the gearbox is closed, but the boy a bar we change the euro to an honest rate. Next morning we visit the Monastery of Rilskij, a short distance. It 's a beautiful monastery surrounded by mountains. E 'entirely paved with rough stone and the central church is covered with frescoes colorati.S' sees a clearing and take the opportunity now to move us to visit Bansko, a typical mountain village at the foot of Vihren, the Rhodopes. It has a well-preserved historic core, paved with large river stones that abound here, the houses are made of stone and brick with wooden balconies and finally eating well again, with dishes of meat, rice and vegetables and a yogurt ice cream much tastier than frozen yogurt American (perhaps because they do not "fat free"). We reach Sofia in the rain: the periphery is formed by a series of gray and crumbling Soviet apartment buildings, ugly but certainly not the worst we have seen, for example, in Moscow and Yerevan and even in some Western civilized city. The signs are only in Cyrillic and do a little 'hard work to decipher, since the map in Latin characters. The center is decent and clean, things to see are in the range of 500-1000 meters, all within walking distance. The next morning at nine o'clock the large square where stands the Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral with its golden domes, is deserted. Inside, there seems to be perpetually in a religious course. The adjacent church of Sveta Sofia, the most ancient and important as the bearer of the name to the capital, is much more sober and the comparison seems low and squat. From an old man in disbelief, one of the stalls in the square, bought at a ridiculously low price an old picture of Lenin. Past the initial disbelief I propose now to take me, if I go back in the afternoon, a picture of Lenin with the whole family. No thanks, I'm not buying holy ... To round the rest gives us a bill of old rubles and an Iraqi banknote with the portrait of Saddam, have sensed that now become stuff for collectors. The small Russian church of St. Nikolaij is very pretty with its green and gold domes. There are many contributions of the Bulgarians towards the Russians, considered the liberator of Bulgaria from Ottoman rule. Emblematic was the fact that during World War II, even after the Axis powers related to Bulgaria, King Boris made his last act of refusing to Hitler to send troops to Russia in 1943, when the Germans were now with the 'water in the throat. He died soon afterwards in mysterious circumstances. We can not find a restaurant on the global Dondukov, where serve with yogurt for dessert a fruit compote, as good as I've ever eaten, even higher than greek. Moreover, Bulgarians claim to be inventors. They jump the goals of the afternoon: the historical museum, guardian of treasures worth, is cordoned off and asked a taxi driver who shrugs, smiling. They closed two months ago, maybe for restoration. The second half of well-being were the Baths, but even here the beautiful liberty, rather than degraded, is closed and shows to be so for years, despite what the guide says, "recently restored with EU funding." Restoration is the only sign that announces it. We can only ripartire.La relentless rain returns and we also need to stretch a bit 'route because of a deviation from the tax police, seems to bridge submerged or damaged by floods this ugly agosto.Arriviamo Kuprivistika of the village, lost in the mountains, an unexpected finding great animation. There are even the military camp just outside the village. It 'full of people, dozens of stalls, balloons, toys, candy, carpet, sausages and rivers of beer, in short, a full-fledged folk festival. We find that is the last day of the ninth edition of the National Festival of Bulgarian folklore. Kuprivistika is a pretty village, with stone bridges over the river and houses a museum of late nineteenth century, some of which retained on the interior and exterior decoration. It 'also paved with large stones of the inevitable road to Veliko Tarnovo fiume.Sulla encountered a step at 1300 m, a national monument of the war against the Turks, who here saw the sacrifice of the Russian soldiers. A great distance is on the summit of the mountain, a huge obelisk. Were also some other memorial places, and is visited by the locals. We challenge the rough road out of curiosity, but when we get on top of the obelisk has been shrouded in mist and it is usual charming invisibile.Veliko Tarnovo, the ancient capital, is a city with a medieval old town, as regards tourism, and for the first time other hotels are full. We are engaged by a chatty lady who gives us his B & B. Waves continually driving Routard, where reported his house. I'm tired and convinced my husband, very reluctant to accept. Her partner is a painter and house in the old town is attractive to executives and old objects that characterize it, but the cleanliness is below even the standards of Bulgarian el'invadenza lady will be higher than any human imagination and patience. The highlight of Veliko are the ruins of the citadel, perched above a cliff, but is more evocative of the landscape along the door that does not visit the inside, visitare.Poco being left very little to far from town, hidden in the woods, well worth the detour to the charming romantic Preobranzeskij monastery, with its colorful frescoes esterni.Appena crossed the border with Romania ....... ... "
0 comments:
Post a Comment